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StingRay 3,5 m

Hallo Frank

Es würde die Italiener auch nicht gefallen wenn wir in Italienischen Foren nur Deutsch schreiben würden
Und was hat das mit Ö zu tun ?


Als Gründungsmitglied verstehe ich RC-Network als Modellbau-Forum, also eine Gemeinschaft von Modellbauern, die sich auf einer Plattform austauschen wollen/ können.

Ich entsinne mich nicht, dass wir seinerzeit die Gründung eines "deutschen Forums" im Sinn hatten. Mir ist eine internationale Beteiligung sehr willkommen.

Und wenn man je so wenig Fremdsprachenkenntnis hat, dass man die Weltsprache Englisch nicht versteht, dann bietet Tante Google heutzutage dermaßen komfortable Hilfe...in wenigen Sekunden, mit wenigen Klicks ist der gesamte Beitrag übersetzt....

Könnten wir jetzt mal wieder zum Thema zurückkehren? Das da lautet: StingRay 3,5 Meter!
ok guys, thank you for your support and let's move on.

My Stingray 3.5
Part 4: painting
Infusion process (again infusion!) does not easily allow “painting on the mould”: dry fibres are stitched and held in place by a spray glue, this is necessary otherwise fibre layers will move with the incoming resin flow, also it is often necessary to correct the position of al misplaced layer and this could cause the paint to separate from the mould. Another problem is related to the release agent: it should be a semi-permanent one otherwise it could be washed away by the resin flow, it is very difficult to paint on such a kind of release agents. I did some tests trying this and the result was a disaster, may be in the future I will try again, last word is not said yet. On the other side it is easily possible to use spray gelcoat but I suspect they are too heavy for an airplane model.
That is why I paint my models with the same processes used on the cars. There are three ways to get it: the first is "direct gloss" 2K PU paint, the second is basecoat + clear coat, the third the same as the second one except for a sanding after the clear coat and then a second layer of clear coat (this is also known as “flowgloss”). The first method is usable only when just one colour is used (paint steps between the colour changes are not well accepted by aermodellers), second method could be used with more than one colour but it should be sanded and polished, third method is the one which grants the best results in any case.
Painting in this way is expensive but the results are pretty good.
Painting schemes: almost any painting scheme is possible until it can be painted using masking tapes (no artistic airbrush), I also own a plotter on which I can cut masking masks to get perfect shapes.

More will follow about assembling and optionals.
hi guys!
Andrea Landi (AndreaL here in this forum), an italian customer of mine who just had his Stingray 3.5, is writing a building log here in RC-network.
I don't know how to place a link to thath but I'm shure you can find the thread and may be post the link here on this one.


Must be this one:


Hallo zusammen, etwas offtopic: Schaut Euch mal den Deepl-Translator an, meiner Meinung nach deutlich besser als Google

Hello everyone, a little offtopic: Take a look at the Deepl-Translator, in my opinion much better than Google

Ciao a tutti, un po' fuori tema: date un'occhiata al Deepl-Translator, secondo me molto meglio di Google

Grüße, Andreas
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